In this guide, I'm going to discuss the basics of the Autococker Paintball Marker. After the "semi-auto rage" kicked in the sniper was slow and not able to keep up with the new semi auto guns.The first section of this guide I am going to start with the different parts of the marker and explain how they work. As the gun was developed into a semi auto marker legendary marker was created and it was used for nearly 15 years in tournament and recreational paintball all over the world.
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I took out my old blue wgp 03 autococker and the bolt is clearly corroded/oxidized and stuck.
I have tried spraying pb blaster pentrating oil and that did not help at all.
I even tried hammering a metal rod in the hole to force out the did not work.
I took vice grip pliers and tried to twist it out and all it did was create metal shavings from the bolt Does anyone have any tips to remove a corroded (aluminum? im wondering even if I did get it out would the inside chamber still be functionable.
If its that bad, the chamber would probably need polished to work right.
I would let it soak a day or two in something like PB Blaster, WD 40, or anything like that. The problem with hitting it with a metal rod is that you could widen the bolt head and make it stuck even worse.agreed ^^^ be aware though, one down side to this is wd-40 will eat the o-rings so I would remove the body from the frame and take everything in the lower tube that you can out.
you probably wont be able to get the valve out unless you have the WGP valve tool so this means the valve body o-rings may very well be dead when this is all over and you will have to visit a shop to fix that.
It is a dual purpose part on the marker that not only fires the marker but also starts the process in which the marker resets(autococks) itself.
On this frame, notice the hole in the trigger itself.
Keep that small hole in mind, we'll be coming back to it later.